Gardening Tips

Mulching is an essential aspect of gardening in Florida. It retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates soil temperature, and improves soil health. 

Mulching is one of the principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping, a set of guidelines designed by the University of Florida IFAS Extension to promote sustainable landscaping practices in Florida. By using mulch, you can reduce water consumption, limit the use of chemical fertilizers, and minimize yard waste. Florida-Friendly Landscaping emphasizes the use of mulch made from natural, locally-sourced materials, which helps support local businesses and reduces the carbon footprint associated with transportation. 

(Learn more about the Nine Principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping)

Here are some mulching tips to help you get started:

1. Choose the right mulch: There are many types of mulch to choose from, such as wood chips, pine straw, and shredded leaves. Consider the purpose of your mulch, the plants you’re mulching, and the aesthetics you want to achieve.
2. Apply the right amount: A good rule of thumb is to apply 2-3 inches of mulch around your plants. Too little mulch won’t be effective, while too much can suffocate your plants and promote fungal growth.
3. 

   One of the most common examples of incorrect mulching is “volcano mulching,” in which excessive amounts of mulch materials are piled at the base of plants, touching trunks or stems. Placing mulch too close to the stem or trunk of your plant can lead to improper root growth, decay, and infestation.

   Don’t pile mulch against plant stems: Mulch piled against the stems of plants can trap moisture and promote rot. Keep a few inches of space between the mulch and the stems of your plants.

4. Mulch regularly: Mulch breaks down over time, so you’ll need to add more to maintain the desired depth. Aim to mulch at least once a year or as needed.
5. Use mulch as a soil amendment: As mulch breaks down, it adds organic matter to the soil, improving soil health and fertility. When adding mulch, consider using it as a soil amendment instead of just a top dressing.
6. Consider the time of year: In Florida, the best time to mulch is in the spring or fall when temperatures are moderate. Avoid mulching in the summer when the heat can trap too much moisture around plant roots.

(Pro tip: Be careful if using some of the free recycled mulches that may be available from tree services or municipal debris collection sites.  These mulches are not treated or certified in any way and can often contain debris that has many seeds for weeds just waiting to sprout in your beautiful plant beds.)

While organic materials, such as wood chips and pine straw, are popular choices for mulching, inorganic materials (rock) can provide an alternative, if desired. Here are some pros and cons to consider before choosing an alternative mulch:

Pros:

• Long-lasting: Stone can last for years without needing replacement.
• Aesthetically pleasing: Stone mulch can give a garden a clean, modern look.
• Does not attract pests: unlike organic mulches, stone mulch does not appeal to termites or rodents.
• Provides good drainage: Both stone and rubber mulch allow water to easily flow through them, preventing waterlogging and root rot.

Cons:

• Expense: Stone is much more expensive than organic mulch.
• Can retain heat: Stone absorbs and retains heat, potentially overheating plant roots and damaging plants during hot weather.
• Does not improve soil health: Unlike organic mulches, stone does not break down and improve soil health over time.
• 

  The Drop N Rock was designed to make working with rock a little easier.

  Weight: Stone is significantly heavier than natural mulch, which can present difficulties for those with physical limitations.  (Pro tip: If you’re looking to DIY stone in your plant beds, consider purchasing from Rock Solid Stone Center in the Tampa Bay area.  They offer the rental of a device called the “Drop N Rock” hopper, which allows you to move and install aggregate without shoveling and without the mess.)

Ultimately, the choice of mulch comes down to personal preference, the needs of your garden, and your budget. Consider the pros and cons of each option before making a decision, and don’t hesitate to ask our garden center experts for advice.

WHAT TO DO

Azaleas: Prune azaleas just after they finish blooming to shape or produce a fuller plant. 

Shrubs and trees: Prune when new growth begins after the end of the dormant season. To guard next season’s blooms, begin pruning after the last flowers fade but before the new buds set. 

Palms and shrubs: Fertilize palms, azaleas, camellias, and other ornamental shrubs if needed. 

Irrigation: Spring is a great time to re-check your sprinkler systems for efficient water use.

WHAT TO PLANT

Annuals: Replace declining winter annuals with varieties such as angelonia, gazania, and salvia that will provide color now and into the summer months. 

Herbs: In addition to their culinary value, many herbs are ornamental and attract butterflies to the garden. 

Vegetables: Warm-season crops, such as beans, peppers, squash, and others can be planted now. 

“My poor palm tree is all brown, and it looks so sad. Is it dead?”

We hear this question a lot, and our answer applies to both palms and other cold-sensitive trees or shrubs: “It depends.” Here are key points:

Important! Do not cut off any damaged branches until you’re reasonably sure that we’re done with cold spells for the season. 

Patience is key. Wait about two weeks after damage occurs before testing or pruning. Some tissue may still appear green but is no longer viable. It takes time for damaged tissue to fully decay and change color, so allowing that process to happen helps ensure you’re cutting to truly healthy growth.

Healthy tree

Dead tree

Distressed tree

An oldie, but goody as we get asked this one a lot.

Once winter has passed, in the spring your dormant (lose/drop leaves in winter) trees will begin to flush and promote more leaves and foliage. If you do not see this transition taking place by late spring, perform the following test (we call it a scratch test):

Take a pair of scissors, a pocket knife, or a strong thumbnail and scrape on a branch of the tree to see the inside coloring.

Once scraped, one of the following 3 scenarios will occur.

1. The branch insides are a vibrant yellow and green.

Result: Congratulations, you have a happy and healthy tree.

2. The branch insides are less vibrant yellow with a little green.

Result: Your tree is showing signs of distress. Our best advice in a situation like this would be to cut back all the dead branches back to where the green foliage is and start giving it more water. A tree in distress usually comes from a lack of water or a deep freeze.

3. The branch insides are light brown/beige in color with no signs of green color and look dry.

Unfortunately, this reveals signs of a dead tree.

Call us if you have questions or need advice on what kind of replacement tree to pick.

When covering landscaping beds, simply lay your cloth or blankets on top of your cold sensitive plants and tack down with stakes or large sod staples.

Remove once freeze warnings are lifted.

When covering cold sensitive palms, be sure to wrap the heads and fronds of the palms with cloth or blankets. Secure the cloth by tying a string around it, or you can also use clothes pins or larger clips. It is imperative that the heads of the palms are covered thoroughly, as this is where the heart of the palm is and the heart is the lifeline of the palm.

You should also work yourself down the trunk all the way to the ground as the ground projects heat to the palm.

Again, covering as much of the entire palm is crucial when it comes to protecting your palms from a freeze.

Once freeze warnings have ceased, simply unwrap, fold, and store away for next time.  Keep in mind, these cloths are reusable for many, many years with good care.

We specialize in growing Florida-friendly, drought-tolerant plants that weather freezing temperatures well.

However, we also sell some popular tropical/seasonal items imported from Miami/Homestead that will require extra care when temperatures falls below freezing (also, read article on how to properly protect your plants from freezing here). They are:

•     Adonidia Palm aka Christmas Palm
•     Allamanda
•     Arboricola
•     Areca Palm
•     Bird of Paradise (Orange/White)
•     Black Magic
•     Blue Daze (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Bougainvillea
•     Cardboard Palm
•     Cassia
•     Copperleaf
•     Crotons (Mammy & Petras)
•     Dipladenia
•     Foxtail Palm
•     Gardenia
•     Ginger
•     Hibiscus (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Ixora (Maui Red)
•     Jasmine (Carolina) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Jasmine (Star) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Lady Palm
•     Lantana (purple, white & yellow) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Mandevilla
•     Plumbago (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Pony Tail Palm
•     Queen Palm (younger, smaller ones)
•     Red Sister
•     Rhapis (Lady) Palm
•     Robellini Palm (younger, smaller ones)
•     Ruella (Mexican Petunia) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Split Leaf

Here’s a landscape and garden to-do list for the month of September:

WHAT TO PLANT

Annuals/Bedding plants: If your summer beds need refreshing, try ageratum, coleus, celosia, zinnia, and wax begonia for color into fall.

Herbs: You can plant herbs that tolerate the warm temperatures of early fall, such as Mexican tarragon, mint, rosemary, and basil.

Vegetables: It is hot, but numerous cool-season (as well as warm-season) crops can be planted.

• Easily transplant: arugula, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, eggplant, endive, kale, lettuce, peppers, strawberry, sugarcane, strawberry, Swiss chard, tomatoes, and tropical spinaches.
• Transplant with care: celery, mustard, pineapple, and spinach.
• Use seeds: beans (bush, lima, pole), carrots, cucumbers, onions (bunching), radish, squashes, and turnips.

WHAT TO DO

Lawn problems: Continue to monitor the lawn for signs of insect damage. Fall armyworms, chinch bugs, mole crickets, and sod webworms are still active this month.

Irrigation: Check that your irrigation systems are providing good coverage and operating properly before the summer rains taper off.

Citrus: Fertilize your citrus trees with a balanced fertilizer either this month or in October. If the weather has been rainy, do not use soluble nitrogen as rains will leach it from the soil too quickly.

Fertilizer Bans: Some municipalities in Florida prohibit the application of fertilizer to lawns and/or landscape plants during the summer rainy season (June–September). See if such an ordinance exists in your area.

Vegetable gardens: Prepare your fall vegetable garden if you didn’t already do it in August. Using transplants from your local garden center will get the garden off to a fast start, but seeds can provide a wider variety from which to choose.

Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension (https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/)

VegetablePlantingGuide

Crape Myrtles are a popular choice for Florida landscapes. They are wind-resistant, moderately drought-tolerant, sun-loving, low-maintenance trees that burst into color from May through September.

Many of our shoppers confess that deciding on a color is a difficult task. However, choosing your cultivar by color alone is a mistake because Crape Myrtles also come in a range of shapes and sizes, which means they may eventually outgrow the space you envisioned for them. Unlike ligustrums, loropetalums, podocarpus, and other shrubs that can be kept small by pruning, Crape Myrtles are not easy to contain. The annual “crape murder,” a common shearing practice that somewhat controls the size, is a poor solution, as it not only turns Crape Myrtles into ugly broomsticks during cool months but also weakens the tree and shortens its lifespan.

The sad irony is that Crape Myrtles grow beautifully shaped crowns naturally, so aside from selective trimming of overgrown branches and suckers, or optional clipping of berries to prolong blooming, they do not require much work. 

Our advice echoes the Florida Friendly landscaping principle, “Right Tree, Right Place,” and we suggest choosing your Crape Myrtle by its expected mature size.

Fortunately, there are plenty of colors in each size category. Here are the varieties we consistently carry:

Large* (15′ to 20+’H x 15’W):

• Muskogee: Lavender 
• Tuscarora:  Dark Pink 
• Dynamite: Red
• Natchez: White
• Tuskegee:  Dark Pink

*These varieties are fast-growing with green foliage in the summer.

Intermediate (12’H x 8’W):

• Catawba: Purple blooms, green foliage

The Ebony series (below)** 

• Shell Pink
• White
• Raspberry
• Purple
• Red

**Slower growing. Feature dark maroon, almost black foliage.

Dwarf (5’H x 8’W):

Enduring Summer: Red blooms, green leaves.