Gardening Tips

When covering landscaping beds, simply lay your cloth or blankets on top of your cold sensitive plants and tack down with stakes or large sod staples.

Remove once freeze warnings are lifted.

When covering cold sensitive palms, be sure to wrap the heads and fronds of the palms with cloth or blankets. Secure the cloth by tying a string around it, or you can also use clothes pins or larger clips. It is imperative that the heads of the palms are covered thoroughly, as this is where the heart of the palm is and the heart is the lifeline of the palm.

You should also work yourself down the trunk all the way to the ground as the ground projects heat to the palm.

Again, covering as much of the entire palm is crucial when it comes to protecting your palms from a freeze.

Once freeze warnings have ceased, simply unwrap, fold, and store away for next time.  Keep in mind, these cloths are reusable for many, many years with good care.

We specialize in growing Florida-friendly, drought-tolerant plants that weather freezing temperatures well.

However, we also sell some popular tropical/seasonal items imported from Miami/Homestead that will require extra care when temperatures falls below freezing (also, read article on how to properly protect your plants from freezing here). They are:

•     Adonidia Palm aka Christmas Palm
•     Allamanda
•     Arboricola
•     Areca Palm
•     Bird of Paradise (Orange/White)
•     Black Magic
•     Blue Daze (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Bougainvillea
•     Cardboard Palm
•     Cassia
•     Copperleaf
•     Crotons (Mammy & Petras)
•     Dipladenia
•     Foxtail Palm
•     Gardenia
•     Ginger
•     Hibiscus (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Ixora (Maui Red)
•     Jasmine (Carolina) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Jasmine (Star) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Lady Palm
•     Lantana (purple, white & yellow) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Mandevilla
•     Plumbago (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Pony Tail Palm
•     Queen Palm (younger, smaller ones)
•     Red Sister
•     Rhapis (Lady) Palm
•     Robellini Palm (younger, smaller ones)
•     Ruella (Mexican Petunia) (If damaged by freeze, cut back & it will grow back.)
•     Split Leaf

Here’s a landscape and garden to-do list for the month of September:

WHAT TO PLANT

Annuals/Bedding plants: If your summer beds need refreshing, try ageratum, coleus, celosia, zinnia, and wax begonia for color into fall.

Herbs: You can plant herbs that tolerate the warm temperatures of early fall, such as Mexican tarragon, mint, rosemary, and basil.

Vegetables: It is hot, but numerous cool-season (as well as warm-season) crops can be planted.

• Easily transplant: arugula, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, eggplant, endive, kale, lettuce, peppers, strawberry, sugarcane, strawberry, Swiss chard, tomatoes, and tropical spinaches.
• Transplant with care: celery, mustard, pineapple, and spinach.
• Use seeds: beans (bush, lima, pole), carrots, cucumbers, onions (bunching), radish, squashes, and turnips.

WHAT TO DO

Lawn problems: Continue to monitor the lawn for signs of insect damage. Fall armyworms, chinch bugs, mole crickets, and sod webworms are still active this month.

Irrigation: Check that your irrigation systems are providing good coverage and operating properly before the summer rains taper off.

Citrus: Fertilize your citrus trees with a balanced fertilizer either this month or in October. If the weather has been rainy, do not use soluble nitrogen as rains will leach it from the soil too quickly.

Fertilizer Bans: Some municipalities in Florida prohibit the application of fertilizer to lawns and/or landscape plants during the summer rainy season (June–September). See if such an ordinance exists in your area.

Vegetable gardens: Prepare your fall vegetable garden if you didn’t already do it in August. Using transplants from your local garden center will get the garden off to a fast start, but seeds can provide a wider variety from which to choose.

Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension (https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/)

VegetablePlantingGuide

Crape Myrtles are a popular choice for Florida landscapes. They are wind-resistant, moderately drought-tolerant, sun-loving, low-maintenance trees that burst into color from May through September.

Many of our shoppers confess that deciding on a color is a difficult task. However, choosing your cultivar by color alone is a mistake because Crape Myrtles also come in a range of shapes and sizes, which means they may eventually outgrow the space you envisioned for them. Unlike ligustrums, loropetalums, podocarpus, and other shrubs that can be kept small by pruning, Crape Myrtles are not easy to contain. The annual “crape murder,” a common shearing practice that somewhat controls the size, is a poor solution, as it not only turns Crape Myrtles into ugly broomsticks during cool months but also weakens the tree and shortens its lifespan.

The sad irony is that Crape Myrtles grow beautifully shaped crowns naturally, so aside from selective trimming of overgrown branches and suckers, or optional clipping of berries to prolong blooming, they do not require much work. 

Our advice echoes the Florida Friendly landscaping principle, “Right Tree, Right Place,” and we suggest choosing your Crape Myrtle by its expected mature size.

Fortunately, there are plenty of colors in each size category. Here are the varieties we consistently carry:

Large* (15′ to 20+’H x 15’W):

• Muskogee: Lavender 
• Tuscarora:  Dark Pink 
• Dynamite: Red
• Natchez: White
• Tuskegee:  Dark Pink

*These varieties are fast-growing with green foliage in the summer.

Intermediate (12’H x 8’W):

• Catawba: Purple blooms, green foliage

The Ebony series (below)** 

• Shell Pink
• White
• Raspberry
• Purple
• Red

**Slower growing. Feature dark maroon, almost black foliage.

Dwarf (5’H x 8’W):

Enduring Summer: Red blooms, green leaves.

We all know that living in the Sunshine State comes with its perks – the endless beaches, the vibrant culture, and of course, the lush landscapes. But along with the beauty of Florida comes the reality of hurricane season, especially during the busy months of August and September. At Canterbury Farms Nursery & Garden Center, we want to make sure your trees, palms, and landscape plants stand tall against the storms. Here are some essential dos and don’ts.

Dos:

1. 

   Contrary to popular belief, Spanish moss does not hurt trees. However, it may indicate that the tree was not quite healthy to begin with. bury Farms

   Trim with Tender Care: As hurricane season approaches, it’s a great time to give your trees and palms a gentle pruning. Remove dead or weak branches that could become projectiles in high winds. Focus on maintaining the tree’s natural shape to prevent excessive stress.  It is important to keep in mind the airflow through the canopy of the tree during a storm.  Trees that have overly dense foliage catch the wind more easily and are more likely to be uprooted.

2. Deep Hydration: Proper hydration is key! Adequate water supply helps your plants build sturdy root systems that can withstand the onslaught of a storm. Ensure your trees and palms are well-watered a few days before a hurricane threat, but be cautious not to overwater, which can lead to root rot.
3. Mulch Magic: A layer of mulch around the base of your plants can provide much-needed protection. Mulch helps retain moisture, prevents soil erosion, and offers an extra layer of insulation for the roots. Just remember to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
4. Stake Smartly: Young trees might need some support during heavy winds. Stake them carefully to avoid causing damage to the roots. Make sure the ties aren’t too tight as you still want the tree to be able to have some natural sway so that it doesn’t snap off in high winds.
5. 

   You may find some palms hurricane-cut; however, recent research discourages that practice as a form of routine pruning. 

   Inspect Regularly: Regularly check your trees and palms for signs of disease or pest infestations. Weak plants are more susceptible to storm damage, so keeping them healthy throughout the year is crucial. (Side note: During the recent seminar, Pete answered a question about Spanish moss on trees.  He noted that the Spanish moss itself does not harm the tree, but it may be an indicator that the tree is not as healthy as it could be. Typically, the healthier trees tend to have denser foliage, which does not lend itself to the growth of Spanish moss.)  If you have questions regarding the health of your tree, it is always helpful to seek the advice of a certified arborist in your local area.

Don’ts:

1. Hurricane Cutting Palms: During the 70s and 80s, it became a common practice to “hurricane cut” several species of palms, which involved pruning away almost all of the palm’s fronds, leaving just a few short fronds at the very top.  However, recent research has found that this practice makes the palms more likely to be damaged in heavy storms.  Scientists have found that Mother Nature knows best, and the natural canopies of the palms provide protection for the hearts, making them less likely to be snapped off in high winds.  Pete recommended using the hands of a clock as a guide and giving your palms a 3 to 9 or 2 to 10 cut, depending on the species, which means trimming only the fronds that hang below the 3:00 or 9:00 hands.
2. Over-Fertilizing: While it’s important to keep your plants healthy, avoid excessive fertilization before a storm. Rapid growth from heavy fertilization can make plants more susceptible to damage.
3. Wrapping Trunks Tightly: Contrary to popular belief, tightly wrapping tree trunks with materials like burlap or rope can do more harm than good. It can trap moisture and encourage rot or even girdle the tree’s trunk as it grows.
4. Ignoring Drainage: Proper drainage around the base of your plants is vital. Waterlogged soil weakens root systems, making it easier for trees and palms to be uprooted by strong winds.
5. 

   It’s a good idea to remove boots from the trunks of palms if they are starting to rot, so they don’t become projectiles during a hurricane. 

   Ignoring Palm Boots: While palm trees naturally shed fronds, often the “boots,” which are the tough, woody bases of the fronds, remain on the tree trunks.  It is recommended to remove as many boots as possible, especially those that have begun to rot, so that they don’t become projectiles.  Removing palm boots can also help to alleviate problems with certain undesirable rodents.

As August and September roll around, keep a close eye on the weather reports and take proactive steps to prepare your trees, palms, and landscape plants for potential hurricanes. A little effort now can go a long way in safeguarding the beauty and health of your outdoor oasis. At Canterbury Farms Nursery & Garden Center, we’re here to help you weather the storms and keep your greenery thriving year-round. Stay safe, stay green, and happy gardening!

For more information, contact your local county extension office or visit these handy links:

Is my tree safe? Recognizing Conditions that Increase the Likelihood of Tree Failure

Pruning Palms

Disaster Preparation and Recovery – Trees and Landscapes

 

Our rule of thumb is to fertilize with a pellet form, slow released fertilizer i.e. 12-6-8,  in spring, summer and fall.

The early spring fertilization will give the plants a good jump start to the beginning of growing season.
The mid-summer feeding will give them another boost to continue growth and to ward off any insects or disease. The fall fertilization will aid in strengthening the plants through the winter months.

We do not recommend fertilizing in the winter because fertilization promotes growth, making the tender new growth vulnerable to frost damage.

Summer is in full swing! Here are some tasks to take care of in July to keep your garden and landscaping looking its best.

WHAT TO PLANT

Annuals/Bedding plants: Examples of summer annuals to plant now include celosia, coleus, torenia, ornamental pepper, and many, many others. Visit our annuals/flower house to get inspired! 

Herbs: While summer is too hot to start herbs from seeds, many can do well if they’re started from small plants.

Palms: Continue planting palms while the rainy season is in full swing. Support large palms with braces for 6–8 months after planting. Nails should not be driven directly into a palm trunk. 

Vegetables: If you’re into vegetable gardening, you can go ahead and start your Halloween pumpkins this month, but watch out for mildew diseases. Okra and Southern peas can also be planted. 

WHAT TO DO

Trees: Prepare for hurricane season by checking trees for damaged or weak branches and pruning if needed. 

Lawns: Determine the cause of any lawn problems before taking action. If an insect is the culprit, treat only the affected area. Rule out disease or sprinkler malfunction. 

Fertilizer Bans: Some municipalities in Florida prohibit the application of fertilizer to lawns and/or landscape plants during the summer rainy season (June–September).  Make sure you check to see if such an ordinance exists in your area.

Vegetable garden: Use the summer heat to solarize the vegetable garden for fall planting. It takes 4–6 weeks to kill weeds, disease, and nematodes, so start now.  (Learn more about soil solarization here)

Azaleas: Prune no later than mid-July to protect developing buds for next spring’s bloom.

Irrigation: Install an inexpensive rain shutoff device to save money by overriding an irrigation system when it rains. If one is already installed, you should double-check that it is operating properly.

Pests on ornamental plants: Inspect the leaves of azaleas and ornamental plants for small white dots that may indicate lace bugs at work. You can spray the plants forcefully with water to help control this pest. 

Citrus: Check your citrus trees for damage to fruit or leaves and take action to minimize the effect of insects and/or disease on developing fruit and the overall health of the tree.

Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension (https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/)

 

Planting year round in Florida is not unusual, and is even encouraged in order to enjoy all the various blooms and color that plants and trees have to offer throughout the different times of the year.
However, as we approach the cooler “winter” months it is time to be prepared for some dips in the temperatures.

Preparedness comes easy as we recommend covering your cold sensitive plants and palms with winter protection cloth AKA “frost blankets” if freezing weather is in the forecast (we have them at Canterbury Farms for sale, but please call ahead to verify availability).

These reusable cloths (last several years) keep your plants and palms 10 degrees warmer than the outside temperature and provide an excellent barrier from the frost. Winter protection cloth also allows sunlight and air to filter through if covered for a period of time.

As an alternative to the winter protection cloth, you can also cover your plants with blankets and comforters. These will provide nice protection, but not as effective as the winter protection cloth.

DO NOT cover your plants with plastic as this will not allow air, sunlight or water to flow through and will stunt and even kill the plant/palm.

Time to deadhead!  Deadheading is the removal of dead or spent flowers to either encourage more flowering or to improve the general appearance of the plant.  This can be accomplished by pruning the spent flowers or by pinching them off with your fingers.  Plants that benefit from deadheading include: Gardenia, Knock Out Rose, Drift Rose, Hibiscus and perennials.